Wednesday, August 5, 2009

Frank Bruni Takes a Star Away From Union Square Cafe

Today Frank Bruni filed his third to last review for the Times, with a two-star for Union Square Café. The first Danny Meyer restaurant, USC is also one of his most beloved, and today it lost a star from the three star rating it was awarded by William Grimes back in 1999. It sounds like Bruni really wanted to keep the star count at three, but that amongst the excellent meals he enjoyed at USC, there were indeed a few mediocre ones. So, two stars it is. The review is, however, a treat, and he really pays props to Danny Meyer and his noble career-long efforts to make sure his customers get what they want.

So, with one review down and two to go, the question is- which restaurants will Bruni choose for his last two reviews? I’m calling it now: next week, we’ll get a three-star of Marea. The week after that,I think we’re going to get that fabled, mythical, four-star review bestowed upon Eleven Madison Park. We know he’s been eating at EMP lately, and we know he loves it. Also, what better way to restore dignity to the Danny Meyer empire than to give the restaurateur’s classy, brassy, youngest child the respect it finally deserves? The message upon leaving would be “sure, Union Square Café is great, but times have changed and – BAMN! – Eleven Madison Park is the new best restaurant in New York. The king has left the building.”

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