A lot of people have said a lot of things about David Chang, but I don't think he's ever been given credit for being New York's most democratic restauranteur. His food is always reasonably priced, inventive and satisfying, his dining rooms are designed to accommodate solo diners as well as larger parties, and his one restaurant that takes reservations has an online system specifically designed to prevent any favoritism or special treatment.
And if there is one dish that exemplifies his democratic sensibility, it is his pork bun.
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A single order gets you two soft homemade chinese-style buns filled with juicy seared pork belly, slivers of pickled cucumber and tangy hoison sauce. For nine dollars, it's a perfectly substantial meal, and in a city obsessed with pork sandwiches, this is surely the most savory and palate-pleasing.The pork bun is available at three of his four restaurants, including the counter-service-only Momofuku Milk Bar, where it is prepared to order and served exactly as it is at the other two. As Chang's empire continues to expand and his menus become more ambitious, it's great that he keeps this on the menu at the Milk Bar for those times when one can't afford to sit down for a proper meal at Ssam or The Noodle Bar.
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