Photo: Gray's Papaya on 37th street

The stretch of 8th Avenue between Madison Square Garden and Port Authority is one of the most depressing parts of Manhattan. Even if these blocks are now flooded with Starbucks and Chase Bank branches, it's still the weird, cold, vaguely threatening land of 80's Eddie Murphy movies and hammy "hey, I'm walking here!" New York cliche. The Gray's Papaya on 37th St. seems to be doing its best to keep the old and the new, the good and the bad of the neighborhood in check.[bxA]

Three Stars for Marea

Congrats to Michael White and Chris Cannon on their three star review today in the NYT. While I was hoping that critic Sam Sifton might drop a big fat juicy four star on White and Cannon's high-class charmer, three stars is perhaps the more appropriate rating. Sifton sort of redeemed himself in my mind with the Marea review -- it contains some elegant prose, it's informative and fun, with lots of sharp twists and turns of the pen. He's brought his A-game, and didn't even make any awkward references to hip-hop lingo, as did in his two star of DBGB's last week. There was one passage, however, that truly belongs on his burgeoning greatest hits list...[bxA]

On describing a delicious appetizer:

The very first item on the menu at Marea is ricci, a piece of warm toast slathered with sea urchin roe, blanketed in a thin sheet of lardo, and dotted with sea salt. It offers exactly the sensation as kissing an extremely attractive person for the first time — a bolt of surprise and pleasure combined. The salt and fat give way to primal sweetness and combine in deeply agreeable ways. The feeling lingers on the tongue and vibrates through the body. Not bad at $14 a throw — and there are two on each plate.

Sexy Sifty, what have you done?

Four Stars for Marea Tonight?

After laying a big fat deuce on DBGB's last week in his first review as NYT food critic, Sam Sifton is about to deliver his second star rating to Marea, Michael White and Chris Cannon's pricey Central Park South Italian seafood joint. Now, conventional wisdom says that Marea is a lock for three stars -- the food, dining room and service are certainly all there, and many, many critics have already awarded it three stars or the equivalent. So, sure, Marea, three stars, that's the safe bet. But, for one second, could we consider, just consider, the possibility that Marea might join The Four Star Club Tonight? Hear me out, people:
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I think Sifton's two star review of DGBG's skewed WAY too high. I know I'm in the minority here, but I was really underwhelmed by the place on my only visit. Sure, its possible I was there on an off night, but of the many dishes my party tried, about half were totally off, and the other half showed the potential to be a lot better. The food was, however, the thing that Sifton liked the most in his review. So, maybe, Sifton is easy when it comes to food. If that's true, than Marea might blow.his.mind.

More importantly, though, I can't help but feel like a four star Marea review might be the perfect strategical opportunity to let the Siftonator gain gravitas in the food world. In the weeks counting down to Bruni's departure, the odds were that it might be his last review, maybe even the first new four star restaurant to come about of his tenure (turns out EMP got that honor). By the time Bruni filed his last review, every big critic had already reviewed the place months before. It sort of seems like the times dining section put the Marea review aside for Sifton, maybe so that he could have a big moment early on. While a three star review might not raise his profile much, a four star review might even get people that don't read food blogs to take notice of Sam Sifton, the new NYT food critic. Also, understanding Marea's price point, a four star review might be an opportunity to suggest something about an economic up swing where fine dining is concerned. A lot of Bruni's four star EMP review revolved around its value. Marea is an old school expensive restaurant, and maybe a four star would be a way of saying that its time that we start thinking about these kind of places a bit more. Also, would anybody in the food world really complain about letting Marea join the four star club?

I'm calling it (perhaps foolishly) on a four star. He's bald. He likes hip hop. He's Sam Sifton, and he's the new sheriff in town.

I'm back!

Hi everyone, good to see you. If you're in any way a frequent visitor to this site (and thanks), you might have noticed that it's been some pretty slim pickins as far as posts have been concerned around here recently. The short story is that I've been really busy, but that's actually a really lame excuse. I'm sure you're busy too, but you still take the time to read this blog, right? I know I've got a long way to go in terms of making it up to you, but maybe I can start with a piece of food porn? Maybe a picture of a lovely Mexican pulled pork dish, panuchos de cohinata?

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The real reason why things have been so quiet around here is that I was looking for, found and started a new job, and I've been doing some other writing as an intern for another food blog, the wonderful, the mighty, the majestic eater.com. Its been a real trip. The people at Eater are great, and as an intern, I've had some crazy adventures, like:

-- Stalking Michele and Barack
-- Standing in a meat locker at DeBragga and Spitler
-- Watching the Artichoke cousins get denied a liquor license
-- Eating lots of street meat in Corona Park
-- Running down all the crazy fried chicken people are making now
-- Dishing out the best deals in town
-- Looking back on 68 years of Gourmet covers

..and lots of other stuff too. At any rate, thanks again for checking out this site, and although I know you have no reason to believe me, I promise to keep filling it with fun things for you to waste your time reading at work. Expect more posts, like, frequently, and like, really soon.

Also I'm tweeting under a different name now: Twitter.com/gregmorabito

Love eternz, JF

Sweet Jesus: The Donald Has an Old-Timey Ice Cream Parlor

Donald Trump is many things - real estate titan, reality television star, hairpiece cautionary tale -- little did I know that there is one more string to his bow: Old-Timey Ice Cream Parlor owner.

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That's right, The Donald keeps a good old American Ice Cream Parlor in the basement of the Trump Building on 5th ave. Nestled in a sea of gold-trim and fine corinthian marble, Trump's Old Fashioned Ice Cream Shoppe is an oasis calm amongst the frenzied dealings of high finance. A place for businessmen to get their two scoops of peanut brickle and mint chip, and let the worries melt away.

Ice Cream not your thing? Donald's got you covered, with his own line of Trump Jelly Beans. Cheer up Charlie! No golden ticket or glass elevator is necessary to enter this world of pure imagination, just use the escalator to the basement.

The Final Touch: Motorino 2's Snappy New Signage

With just hours to go until Motorino Part Deux opens its doors, I present a photo of its totally awesome new signage. It's official: this baby is ready to go!

The Smell of Desperation: Oliver's Brunch Signage

I know that times are tough out there, and I suppose that $13.95 for a two-drink brunch in a West Village pub inspired by Raiders of the Lost Ark is a pretty good deal, but if the gigantic sign in Oliver's window doesn't scream desperation then I don't know what does.[bxA]

Birdbath In the Old Vesuvio Space, Huh?

I guess it's cool that Birdbath is moving into the space old Vesuvio space. I know this doesn't make any sense, but it would be great if they could just keep the old window and awning signage the way it is.

Sneak Peak Inside Motorino 2!

With just a few days to go until the second branch of Mathieu Palombino's Motorino Pizza opens up in the old Una Pizza Napoletana space, I present a few walk-by snapshots of its remodeled interior! 

Green stripes? Check.  Framed photos of the Old Country? Check. Also, looks like Motorino Part Deux will be packing more tables than UPN ever did. So far, the decor kind of reminds me of a cross between an old-timey ice cream parlor and somewhere young Ray Liotta would work at the beginning of Goodfellas.  Cool! [bxA]

JudgeFudge's Suggestions for New Shake Shack Locations

Eater announced last week that in addition to opening seven Shake Shacks in Saudi Arabia and Dubai, Danny Meyer also has plans to open up three more locations in New York within the next year.  Because Danny didn't offer any specifics in regard to locations, here are some he might want to consider: [bxA]

1.  Astor Place -- The original Madison Square Park location is only about fifteen blocks away, but a Shake Shack in the old Starbucks location would be a huge hit with NYU and Cooper Union students for whom anything north of 14th Street is a mystery.  Tourists are always checking out St. Marks, Astor Place is just a ten minute walk for West Village families, and throngs of bar and club goers from the East Village and the Lower East Side would flock to a location here if it were open late enough.  The old Starbucks even looks like the original Shake Shack . . .

2. South St. Seaport -- While tourists love the South Street Seaport because they feel like it's where real New Yorkers go, real New Yorkers generally avoid it like the plague. Adding a Shake Shack to the Fulton St. open mall would be game changing as it would attract Wall Streeters, City Hall workers, and Manhattanites who want a vital third reason to go to the Seaport other than the Ikea Ferry and a decent view of the Brooklyn Bridge.

3.  Park Slope, 7th avenue near Prospect Park -- I think it's safe to say that at least one new Shake Shack will be in Brooklyn.  While I'm rooting for Dumbo, I think that Danny Meyer will want to replicate the success of his UWS location by opening up shop in a family oriented neighborhood close to a park with a lot of foot traffic.  So, Park Slope it is.  This would be the least visited Shake Shack location by tourists or people from other neighborhoods, but I'm sure that Park Slopers would be proud to have a Shake Shack to call their own, and would make it a smash hit.  Also -- Five Guys had no problem opening in this neighborhood about a year ago.

4.  The High Line -- It's true, the West Side already has its Shake Shack, but a location under or around the High Line would be the other big attraction that the neighborhood really needs to bring tourists and foot traffic to the area. Residents of Chelsea and the West Village would flock to it, as would day trippers checking out the High Line park.  A Shake Shack would also be a delicious, affordable food option in a neighborhood overcrowded with glitzy, high end eateries. 

Update: Mere minutes after writing this post, Eater broke the very exciting news that the first new Manhattan Shake Shack location has been announced!  It will be in Nolita on the corner of Mulberry and Prince Street.  Downtown Manhattan, you have been warned.  Start hitting those treadmills now! 

Happy Labor Day From JudgeFudge!

Happy Labor Day! 'Tis the season for firing up the grill one last time, seeing third rate Sandra Bullock vehicles, and spending time with family and friends, safe in the knowledge that your children will be heading back to school in a mere matter of hours.  I know it's not really a gift giving holiday, but I got you something anyway[bxA]

 A picture of a hamburger! 

This particular burger is the Bistro Burger from the Corner Bistro -- I ate it a few weeks ago and it was delicious! The burger snobs will say that their beef isn't the most flavorful, and that the burgers are precooked then reheated before it is served to you -- all true, all true.  The thing is, for $5.25 a Bistro Burger (served with bacon and American cheese) is a savory, sloppy delight. Sure, there are better burgers in this city, but not when you're eating it. 

Applemania Hits a Snag: TripeGate

While New Yorkers are thrilled that wunderkind chef Nate Appleman will be making his New York debut later this fall at the helm of Pulino's Pizzeria, some denizens of Nate's hometown of San Francisco aren't so happy with a few things he has had to say about their fair city on his way out the door.  In an Appleman profile that ran in the Times this week, Nate dropped this little nugget: 

"In San Francisco the audience is easy.  You put tripe in a bowl and tell them it's from a humanely raised cow and they're going to eat it."

Angered, confused, and seeking answers, San Francisco Chronicle readers turned to food critic Michael Bauer to make sense of this.  Did The 'Apps really diss SF, Mike?! [bxA]

In a blog post Bauer defends Appleman, saying that if anything, dude was praising the way the city's diners embrace challenging foods and care for freshness and sustainability, but he does note that San Franciscans are generally "a sensitive lot." While I mostly agree with Bauer's take on the situation,  I'm not sure Appleman's comment didn't contain at least some small dig at San Francisco diners.  Let's be honest here: tripe is one of the most disgusting foods known to man.  It tastes like feet. 

Bauer also draws our attention to another Appleman quote from the Times piece: 

 "New York is totally different.  In fact, I'm not sure what you have to do in New York." 

It's a good question, Nate.  Maybe keep tripe off the menu at Pulino's? 

Restaurants in Mad Men: Drinks and Room Service at The Savoy Plaza Hotel

In the Mad Men episode "For Those Who Think Young," Don and Betty Draper celebrate Valentine's Day 1962 with drinks and room service at The Savoy Plaza Hotel.  Located on the majestic corner of East 59th Street and Central Park South, The Savoy was just across the street from the Plaza Hotel, and became known as its younger, sexier counterpart.[bxA]

The Savoy Plaza was built in 1927 by the Childs family, whose chain of eponymous upscale American eateries set the standard for restaurant franchises in the last half of the twentieth century.  It was demolished in 1964 to make way for the General Motors building which now houses, among other things, FAO Shwartz and The Apple Store. 

Although the heyday of The Savoy is relatively short by New York Hotel standards, its lounge where Betty and Don have drinks was considered one of the most elegant and contemporary of its time.  The scene between the Drapers certainly echoes this. Beginning with Betty descending the stairs in slow motion, it is one of the first times you sense Don trying to recapture a moment lost to time.  

After a drink at the lounge, and some bad sex in the hotel room, Betty orders room service. She asks for something special and "out of season," eventually settling on a rare petit filet and a half an avocado filled with crab meat.  The room service was presumably from Trader Vic's on the first floor of The Savoy, which specialized in steak, seafood and exotic cuisines.  Trader Vic's is the restaurant that started the "tiki" craze, eventually expanding to 25 locations across the country.  While the notion of a tiki bar seems cheesy by today's standards, Trader Vic's was well reviewed by The New York Times in 1958 and became such a destination for the rich and famous that when the Savoy closed its doors, the Plaza hotel bought the restaurant and moved it across the street. 

I find it interesting that Mathew Weiner and Co. chose The Savoy Plaza as the spot where the Drapers try to rekindle their flame, because unlike a lot of other establishments namechecked in Mad Men, the hotel's reputation has been somewhat lost to history.  In the scenes at The Savoy, you're left with the impression that, despite their problems, Don and Betty might still be capable of being the beautiful, sexy and sophisticated couple that everyone else sees them as.   I guess it's fitting that Matthew Weiner chose to set this scene in a place that only seems to exist in the rose colored memories of long, long ago. 

Things I Ate in Port Townsend, WA

I took trip to Port Townsened, Washington with my girlfriend last week  to visit her family and enjoy a little R & R.  Port Townsend is a small coastal town about two hours northwest of Seattle -- it famously spawned the bumper sticker "Port Townsend: We're Here Because We're Not All There".[bxA]

The best thing I ate on the trip was a fish taco from a street vendor at the annual Uptown Street Fair. I don't know why New York can't get fish tacos right. This one was great -- three large pieces of heavily battered, perfectly fried cod, hugged by fresh guacamole, pico de gallo and a light but creamy beschamel sauce. Seriously, this needs to make the cross country trip.

Did you know that New York is not the only place that has food trucks? I didn't try coffee from the Java Gypsy coffee truck, but I can vouch for the fact that the barista, who looked like a young Stevie Nicks, was a beast on the espresso machine even though she had a toddler in a sling strapped to her.

 

Also at the Uptown Street Fair: this woman chillaxing in a baby carriage stuffed to the brim with fresh vegetables.

Breakfast is a big deal in Port Townsend. The Hudson Scramble at The Port Hudson Cafe is superb -- scrambled eggs, spinach, mushrooms, roasted new potatoes and nicely smokey bacon, smothered in very good mozzarella cheese. I haven't had a fresher tasting egg dish anywhere in New York.

Port Hudson's cherry cornmeal pancakes are also a hit. The mix of slightly salty batter and sour cherries really sing when butter and maple syrup are liberally applied.

Waterfront Pizza is a Port Townsend institution. For over 25 years they have been making a durable sourdough crust pie, with a slightly sweet marinara sauce and a well dispersed layer of good commercial grade mozzarella.

I loved how the andoullie sausage on the half sausage half regular pie we ordered was layered in a perfectly even blanket, and added a rich and spicy kick to what is a very starchy pizza. Comparing Wafterfront to John's or DiFara's is an apples to oranges kind of thing, but even by pizza snob standards, this is very, very good stuff.

Coffee. Where to start? There seem to be as many coffee places in Port Townsend as there are mailboxes. I think I tried about three different cups of coffee every day I was in town. On average, the coffee was much, much better than anything we have in New York, mostly because everyone brews it very strong. 

The coffee from Sweet Laurette's is the closest facsimile to what I consider to be the best coffee in the world -- Peet's from Berkeley, California. In a blind taste test, I don't know if I could tell the two apart. Sweet Laurette's uses Umbria Coffee Company beans -- their drip coffee has a rich, ashy taste akin to a good piece of dark chocolate.

Tyler Street Cafe also has excellent drip coffee, which miraculously has no trace of bitterness, even though it is dispensed from large self-serve urns. The beans are from Seattle-based Caffe Vita -- the brew isn't as rich as Sweet Laurette's, but it is just as strong.

The Poulsbohemian Coffeehouse in the nearby town of Poulsbo is a charming old cafe perched on a bluff overlooking Liberty Bay. Great vibe, sufficiently strong if slightly acrid coffee from the Mukiliteo Coffee Company. I'm told espresso is the thing to get here.

I was excited to try the coffee from Undertown Coffeehouse, as they serve Stumptown beans, the Portland-based coffee company that is all the rage in New York right now. I've had Stumptown from maybe five or six different places in NYC, and each cup has been god awful. Their coffee is always weak and has a weird perfumey taste, like someone tried to add "coffee flavor" to the beans or something. I figured that if there was one place to try Stumptown, it would in the trendy twentysomething hangout in downtown Port Townsend.

It was apparent that the gang at Undertown knew what they were doing. Upon ordering a cup of drip, they gave me the option of having the dregs of a pot that that was already being served, or a fresh cup from a pot that had just been brewed (they throw their coffee away after thirty minutes). I opted for the older pot, and my girlfriend got a cup of the fresher stuff. As I fixed my coffee, I wondered, was I about to have some of the best coffee of my life? 

Nope.  Both cups of the Stumptown coffee tasted exactly like they do in New York. I give up. Stumptown makes horrible coffee.  While they might know a lot about marketing their brand, they certainly don't know the first thing about what coffee should taste like. I swear to god -- this cup in particular tasted like a Whoppers malt ball.

The Fountain Cafe is the kind of restaurant that simply doesn't exist in New York. The decor is funky, there's one dude on the kitchen who cooks everything, the wine list is stellar, the pastas are splashy but very good, the seafood is fresh and properly seasoned, the desserts are big gooey lip smackers, and everything is reasonably priced. 

On our last few days in town, we kept hearing of places to try and foods to sample that we never got around to. Port Townsend is a relatively small town -- population nine thousand -- but it is something of a cultural hub for the area. There seem to be a lot of people passing through, whether it is weekenders staying at a B and B, or sailors in town because of its many harbors and dry-docks -- I guess it makes sense that the food would be so solid, and the coffee would be like rocket fuel.

Thoughts on Julie & Julia

So, I finally checked out Julie & Julia. Here are some thoughts:

-- If Julie Powell wanted to pay respect to Julia Child, would she really leave a stick of partially melted butter under her portrait at The Smithsonian?

-- OMG Amy Adams' haircut! It goes a long way to tip the annoying/cute scales in her favor. 

-- Meryl Streep can do no wrong. With this movie and Mamma Mia, she's probably your mom's favorite actress right now.

-- I didn't like the actor who played Julie Powell's husband, especially whenever he dipped his fingers in something, shoved it into his mouth and went 'OH mug gawd, you mrade thiss?!"

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--Frank Bruni is the dinner guest in the cream colored jacket at the end of the film? WTF? I've seen that photo in press for the movie a million times and never made the connection. HE WAS HIDING IN PLAIN SIGHT. 

-- Look out people! We've seen the Manic Pixie Dream Girl many times before, but we've never seen her with a spatula -- and it worked. I bet you five bucks that in Zooey Deschanel's next film her character will be obsessed with cooking/baking/eating/food blogs/The Joy of Cooking, etc. 

--Who's doing the dishes in the Powell household?  I didn't see a dishwasher in their perfectly cluttered apartment...

-- It's nice to see Stanley Tucci and Meryl Streep rekindling their great on-screen chemistry. Also, his inclusion set up a nice thematic link to Big Night, a far better food film than this one.

-- The brown haired actress that played Julia Child's co-author -- did she bone up on her French accent by watching old Pepe Le Pieu cartoons? 

-- I loved seeing Long Island City portrayed as the great unchartered wilderness of New York.  You know, the 7 train runs there, right? 

-- It was fun to see the back of Ed Levine's head in the scene at Dean and Deluca, but isn't Ed more of a Fairway/Zabar's kind of guy?  

Let's Get This Party Started: Hennessy Colada at Dallas BBQ

Do you like the smooth, rich taste of Hennessy brand cognac, but wish that it was mixed with ice and milk, zapped in a blender, finished off with fresh whipped cream and served in a margarita glass the size of a small trash can?

Then head down to Dallas BBQ for their new Hennessey Colada. It makes for a refreshing, potent aside to a plate of jumbo fried chicken wings, and provides the perfect antidote to those awkward first-date jitters. You're a class act, and your lady-friend will know it the minute you order one of these bad boys. Get your swirl on![bxA]

Cool Looking Cakes from Pictures of Cakes

Jessica Reed is a brooklyn based blooger, who's site Pictures of Cakes covers all things cake-world related. One of my favorite things about her site are the pictures of the cakes she bakes herself -- Jess has a knack for making historically themed and aesthetically challenging cakes. A few of my favorite pics of her work, after the jump:[bxA]

Check it out. 

Democracy Through Pork Buns

A lot of people have said a lot of things about David Chang, but I don't think he's ever been given credit for being New York's most democratic restauranteur.   His food is always reasonably priced, inventive and satisfying, his dining rooms are designed to accommodate solo diners as well as larger parties, and his one restaurant that takes reservations has an online system specifically designed to prevent any favoritism or special treatment. 

And if there is one dish that exemplifies his democratic sensibility, it is his pork bun.

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A single order gets you two soft homemade chinese-style buns filled with juicy seared pork belly, slivers of pickled cucumber and tangy hoison sauce.  For nine dollars, it's a perfectly substantial meal, and in a city obsessed with pork sandwiches, this is surely the most savory and palate-pleasing.The pork bun is available at three of his four restaurants, including the counter-service-only Momofuku Milk Bar, where it is prepared to order and served exactly as it is at the other two.  As Chang's empire continues to expand and his menus become more ambitious, it's great that he keeps this on the menu at the Milk Bar for those times when one can't afford to sit down for a proper meal at Ssam or The Noodle Bar.

Mixing Cocktails: You're Doing it Wrong

Today, The New York Times takes a look at the new ways bartenders are making drinks, and it's some pretty crazy stuff. Basically, hand cut ice the size of Rubix cubes are all the rage (they have less surface area than a bunch of smaller cubes, duh), and there's a guy in Japan who has developed a superior martini shake method over the past 40 years so complicated and scientific only a few others have been able to master it.  

We ain't talking fuzzy navels here. 

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The Scoop from the Brooklyn Ice Cream Factory

I figured the odds of The Brooklyn Ice Cream factory being good were slim to none. Despite its promising old-timey store front, the BICF is located smack in the middle of a grizzly, barren block in North Greenpoint, a stone's throw away from where Newton Creek splits Brooklyn from Queens. One unbearable August afternoon, I stopped in for a scoop -- and guess what? It turns out this place is totally great! [bxA]

The Brooklyn Ice Cream Factory serves only eight classic flavors, all of which are made in house. My guess is that they must do a lot of business at local restaurants, as their shop was only a small part of a larger facility and there was a lot of loading and unloading of tubs of ice cream out of the front door while I was there.

I sampled the Peaches and Cream. This is a textbook version of the dessert -- smooth, supremely creamy, and studded with flecks of real peaches. Because they only make and serve a few flavors, I have a feeling everything is probably pretty good, and from the set up behind the bar, it looks like they're equipped to make some next-level sundaes.

I plan on going back before the end of the summer to sample the rest of the goods. If you find yourself ambling across the Pulaski bridge on a hot summer day, or if your Newton Creek fishing trip turns out to be a bust, I highly recommend cooling off with some ice cream in the cozy front room of the Brooklyn Ice Cream Factory.

Food and Dining from Blackmark

Leah Hayes (aka Blackmark) is an amazing Brooklyn-based illustrator and musician. You may recognize her work -- it's been featured everywhere -- but the sketches and illustrations she features daily on her blog are really something. Here are some of my favorite food and dining related sketches:

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Check it out.